Spring Agenda

My Trees

Norway Maple
Will be transplanted into bigger pot
Birch
The conch fungus will be watced closely, but no repotting this spring. Aggressive watering and feeding should make the tree strong and vigorous.
Siberian Maple
After posting an image on IBF showing the fungus on this maple i have found a treatment. As soon as I get my Lime Sulfur from http://www.kaizenbonsai.com/, this will be mixed with water (1:30 solution) and sprayed on. Should take care of this irritable shroom.
Treasure Beech
My treasure beech is doing okay, but it needs a repotting in the spring. I will follow the guidelines for backbudding beeches and hopefully get some buds further down the trunk as time goes by.
The Ash going Kabudatchi with a big JIN
Needs a repotting in spring, keeping its container, but pruning the main trunk down to the size of the three others, making it more clump-stile like, as opposed to its no-stile-like of today. Also cleaning the "stump" with my new dremel and some lime sulfur.
The Rowan
Repotting into a bigger (new??) pot in spring, as buds extends.. Making a new leader down the trunk to ensure trunk fattening.
The Mispel
Repotting into larger pot, otherwise follow plan; New leader on top, restraining growth elsewhere to get the upper trunk thicker..
The Pine
Repotting, bud selection, pinching and fertilizing. Check the guide at http://bonsai4me.com/ for pruning pines for a good guide on bud selection etc.
The Larch 
Wiring, pruning and creating deadwood will be done late winter, aka mid-february. Then before the buds break in spring its time for its first bi-annual repotting.
The beeches
The time has come to prune all the beeches. Removing all strong buds at the tips of all branches will ensure backbudding.

The one year old Acer Palmatum, with the living larch cutling

Repotting for both of them. Excellent acer development guide from Morten Albek: http://www.shohin-europe.com/ALBEKGALLERY-acer-2.html. Extract from this article:

"What is important is to develop short internodes (distance between leafs), and this is done by pruning and controlling the growth of twigs by removing the leaf sheeds when new leafs develops in spring."

Overall
This year I will also experiment with giving my trees more fertilizer than earlier, since all of them are residing in well-draining soil, there is little or no chance to burn the roots. Walter Pall is a pioneer in this area, posting that the substrate  that most modern, western Bonsai artists of today is using, has a much more drainable substance than what has earlier been used and is claiming in so that WE NEED TO CHANGE THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT WATERING AND FERTILIZING our bonsai trees. I will follow his guideline  from now on, feeding with strong nitrogen - (20-10-10) fertilizer every 10 - 14 days throughout the growing season.

Read the full article on his blog: http://walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/2009/06/feeding-again.html

Applying limesulfur:
http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basics%20Bonsai%20MythsLimeSulphur.html

Creating deadwood:
http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATCreating%20Deadwood.html

Limesulfur or its "none-white" comparison, can be bought of kaizenbonsai webshop. In addition i need some jin-pliers for my tool-box and a multipurpose tool for removing wood. I think this will quite suffice:
http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=134183035